Role of interleukin-6 and endothelin-1 receptors in enhanced melanocyte dendricity of facial spots and suppression of their ligands by niacinamide and tranexamic acid.

BACKGROUND: Hyperpigmented spots are common issues in all ethnicities with a hallmark characteristic of increased melanocyte dendricity. OBJECTIVES: To determine (1) potential receptors and/or cytokines that are involved in increased melanocyte dendricity in multiple facial spot types; (2) treatment effects of skin-lightening compounds on identified cytokine release from keratinocytes and on dendricity in melanocytes. METHODS: Facial spots (melasma, solar lentigo, acne-induced post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) and adjacent non-spot skin biopsies were collected from Chinese women (age 20-70). The epidermal supra and basal layers were laser dissected to enrich keratinocyte or melanocyte biology respectively for transcriptome analysis. Melanocyte dendricity was assessed histologically by immunofluorescent staining. Effect of interleukin-6 (IL-6) and endothelin-1 (ET-1) on melanocyte dendricity and melanosome transfer were assessed in human melanocytes or melanocyte-keratinocyte co-culture models. Treatment effects of skin-lightening compounds (niacinamide, tranexamic acid [TxA], sucrose laurate/dilaurate mixture [SDL]) were assessed on IL-6 or ET-1 release from keratinocytes and on dendricity in melanocytes. RESULTS: Transcriptome analysis revealed IL-6 receptor and ET-1 receptor were significantly upregulated compared to the adjacent normal skin, visually confirmed at the protein level through immunostaining. Melanocytes in spot areas are more dendritic than melanocytes in adjacent non-spot skin. The addition of IL-6 and ET-1 to cell culture models increased melanocyte dendricity and melanosome transfer. IL-6 release was significantly suppressed by niacinamide and its combination, while ET-1 release was significantly reduced by both niacinamide and TxA. In contrast, SDL acted directly upon melanocytes to reduce dendricity. CONCLUSION: Interleukin-6 and ET-1 receptors are significantly upregulated in multiple facial spot types. The in vitro testing demonstrated their respective ligands increased melanocyte dendricity. Tested skin-lightening compounds showed reduction in release of IL-6/ET-1 from epidermal keratinocytes and/or inhibition of melanocyte dendricity. This work sheds light on pathophysiological mechanism of facial spots and potential new mechanisms of these skin-lightening compounds which warrant further human clinical validation.

Morphological and transcriptional evaluation of multiple facial cutaneous hyperpigmented spots.

Background: Morphological characteristics of major facial hyperpigmented spots have been well documented. However, detailed alterations of respective transcriptional profile for each spot and in-depth comparisons across multiple spot types have not been reported. Objectives: To comprehensively assess and compare multiple facial hyperpigmented spot types at the morphological and molecular levels by utilising transcriptional expression profiling with correlation to quantified histological features. Methods: Multiple types of facial spot biopsies were collected from Chinese women and compared to additional biopsies taken from adjacent healthy skin. The types of spots included Solar Lentigos with both elongated dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) (SL[E]) and flat DEJ (SL[F]), Seborrhoeic Keratosis (SK), Melasma, Freckles, Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation of resolving acne (PIH[A]) and other stimuli (PIH[O]). Combined histomorphometry, immunohistology, and transcriptome analysis for suprabasal-epidermis, basal-epidermis, and dermal compartments dissected by Laser Capture Microdissection (LCM) were conducted and compared across different spot types. Results: Each spot type was confirmed to have the unique histological pathology already documented elsewhere. Most of the spot types except Melasma and PIH (A) revealed similar melanocyte density to adjacent skin. All spots exhibited increased melanin synthesis, melanosome transportation, as well as enhanced melanocyte dendricity, however, each spot revealed a distinct transcriptome regulation pattern in pigmentation pathways. Upregulation of pigmentation genes was also observed in the dermis of SL(F), SL(E), SK and PIH(O), associated with significant modulation of DEJ related genes in basal-epidermis and/or dermal compartments, suggesting potential melanocyte infiltration into the dermis due to impaired DEJ quality. Beyond upregulated pigmentation, for most spots, gene expression in the suprabasal-epidermis regulating keratinisation was significantly upregulated in conjunction with thickened stratum corneum. Furthermore, downregulation of tight junction related genes represented by claudin-1 was observed in majority of spot types, suggesting compromised barrier function could be a similarity across spots. Additionally, Cyclin-Dependent Kinase Inhibitor 2A (CDKN2A) was upregulated in all types of spots, indicating involvement of cell senescence as a common theme. Conclusion: This comprehensive and comparative study based on the histological and transcriptional analysis of three skin compartments provided unique insights into specific causations as well as differences and similarities across multiple hyperpigmented spot types.

The combination of sucrose dilaurate and sucrose laurate suppresses HMGB1: an enhancer of melanocyte dendricity and melanosome transfer to keratinocytes.

BACKGROUND: Hyperpigmented spots are common issues in all ethnicities, involving multiple intrinsic and extrinsic factors such as UVB exposure, hormone balance, inflammatory status and ageing. OBJECTIVES: To determine (i) melanocyte dendricity in multiple facial spot types, (ii) impact of High Mobility Group Box 1 (HMGB1), and the combination of sucrose dilaurate and sucrose laurate (SDL) on melanogenesis and melanocyte dendricity, and (iii) SDL effect on facial spots in a human use test. METHODS: Facial spot and adjacent non-spot skin biopsies were collected from Chinese women (age 20-70). Histological assessment of melanocyte dendricity was performed for 3 spot types (solar lentigo, melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation) by immunofluorescent staining for c-kit/MITF. Keratinocyte, melanocyte and melanocyte-keratinocyte co-culture models were used to assess HMGB1 release by UVB radiation, the effects of HMGB1 and SDL on melanin production, melanocyte dendricity and melanosome transfer. The effect of an SDL-containing moisturizer on appearance of facial hyperpigmented spots was assessed against a vehicle control in an 8-week human use test. RESULTS: Melanocytes in spot areas are more dendritic than melanocytes in adjacent non-spot skin across three investigated spot types. In cell culture models, a moderate UVB-radiation exposure caused release of HMGB1 from keratinocytes. HMGB1 did not alter melanin production in melanocytes, but enhanced melanocyte dendricity and melanosome transfer. SDL reduced HMGB1 release from keratinocytes, inhibited melanin production, reversibly suppressed melanocyte dendricity and reduced melanosome transfer. In the human use test, SDL-containing moisturizer reduced appearance of spots versus vehicle. CONCLUSION: Increased melanocyte dendricity was observed in multiple types of facial spots. Addition of HMGB1 protein increased melanocyte dendricity and melanosome transfer in cell cultures, implicating potential involvement in spot formation. SDL suppressed melanin production, melanocyte dendricity and melanosome transfer in vitro and reduced appearance of spots in the use test, suggesting SDL is an effective solution to address hyperpigmented spot concerns.

Optimized low pH formulation of niacinamide enhances induction of autophagy marker ATG5 gene expression and protein levels in human epidermal keratinocytes.

BACKGROUND: Macromolecules in skin cells are damaged when exposed to environmental stressors, leading to disrupted cellular function and homeostasis. While epidermal turnover can eliminate some of this damage, autophagy can rapidly remove these defective components. Niacinamide (Nam) is known to induce autophagy and optimizing formulations to maximize this response could provide improved homeostasis in stressed skin. OBJECTIVE: To determine (i) whether Nam can induce autophagy related 5 (ATG5), an autophagy marker, in human keratinocytes and (ii) whether optimized low pH Nam formulations can enhance the response in 3D skin models. METHODS: Human keratinocytes treated with Nam were evaluated for autophagosome accumulation and induction of ATG5 by gene expression, immunoblotting and immune-fluorescence microscopy. 3D skin equivalents were topically treated with Nam formulations at pH 5.8 and 3.8. Gene expression profiling and immunoblot analysis of ATG5 were performed. RESULTS: Nam treatment of keratinocytes led to an accumulation of autophagosomes with a maximal signal at 48 h. Gene expression of ATG5 was induced by Nam, and immunoblots stained for ATG5 showed a significant increase after 6 h of treatment. Gene expression profiling of 3D epidermal skin equivalents treated with Nam at pH 3.8 showed stronger induction of autophagy-related genes, including ATG5, compared with pH 5.8 formulas. Enrichment for gene ontology terms on autophagy showed an increased linkage with Nam formulas at pH 3.8. CONCLUSIONS: We found that Nam induces autophagosome accumulation and ATG5 levels in keratinocytes. We also discovered that a Nam formulation at pH 3.8 can further increase levels of ATG5 in 3D skin models when compared to Nam at pH 5.8. These data support that Nam can induce autophagy in keratinocytes and formulations at pH 3.8 can enhance the impact. We hypothesize that optimized formulations at pH 3.8 can improve skin ageing appearance via autophagy induction.

Autophagy activators stimulate the removal of advanced glycation end products in human keratinocytes.

BACKGROUND: The accumulation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) can impact cellular homoeostasis and protein structure, thus is implicated in numerous skin conditions including yellow, dull appearance. AGE formation is irreversible; thus, understanding of the recycling process of AGEs in the skin is critical for addressing skin appearance conditions. OBJECTIVE: To determine whether (i) accumulation of AGEs occurs in dull appearance group among young population (age 20-29) (ii) in vitro autophagy stimulation results in reduction of AGEs in keratinocytes. METHODS: Facial cheek biopsies were collected from Chinese women (age 20-50) exhibiting either dull or non-dull appearing skin. Histological assessment of glycation was performed for representative subjects among the 20-29 years sub-group by immunofluorescence staining of AGEs. LC-MS methods and keratinocyte cell culture were used to assess impact of autophagy modulators and skin care materials on carboxymethyl lysine (CML) amount, a representative AGE. RESULTS: Notable amounts of AGEs were observed in the epidermal samples among young females. Interestingly, the amount of AGEs was significantly higher among the dull skin appearance group. Treatment of keratinocytes with glyceraldehyde (GLA) enhanced CML in the cells, and postglycation treatment with autophagy activators reduced CML. Two skin care materials, Nymphaea alba flower extract (a.k.a. white water lily extract) and sucrose dilaurate, were identified based from in vitro autophagy activation and found to reduce CML in keratinocytes. CONCLUSION: We found AGEs accumulate in the facial epidermis even among young people, correlating to a yellow and dull appearance. We also demonstrated in vitro activation of autophagy can reduce AGEs in keratinocytes, and autophagy activating skin care materials, N. alba flower extract and sucrose dilaurate, also reduce AGEs in the keratinocyte in vitro model. These data suggest epidermal AGEs contribute to the dull skin appearance, and autophagy activators may provide an effective solution to improve dull appearance by removing and recycling the accumulated glycation in the skin.

The walking dead: sequential nuclear and organelle destruction during hair development.

BACKGROUND: Transition of hair shaft keratinocytes from actively respiring, nucleated cells to structural cells devoid of nucleus and cytoplasm is key to hair production. This form of cell 'death', or cornification, requires cellular organelle removal to allow the cytoplasm to become packed with keratin filament bundles that further require cross-linking to create a strong hair fibre. Although these processes are well described in epidermal keratinocytes, there is a lack of understanding of such mechanisms, specifically in the hair follicle. OBJECTIVES: To gain insights into cornification mechanisms within the hair follicle and thus improve our understanding of normal hair physiology. METHODS: Scalp biopsies and hair-pluck samples were obtained from healthy human donors and analysed microscopically after immunohistochemical staining. RESULTS: A focal point of respiratory activity was evident in keratogenous zone cells within the hair shaft, which also exhibited nuclear damage. Nuclear degradation occurred via both caspase-dependent and caspase-independent pathways. Conversely, mitophagy was driven by Bnip3L and restricted to the boundary of the keratogenous zone at Adamson's Fringe. CONCLUSIONS: We propose a model of stepwise living-dead transition within the first 1 mm of hair formation, whereby fully functional, nucleated cells first consolidate required functions by degrading nuclear DNA, yet continue to respire and provide the source of reactive oxygen species required for keratin cross-linking. Finally, as the cells become packed with keratin bundles, Bnip3L expression triggers mitophagy to rid the cells of the last remaining 'living' characteristic, thus completing the march from 'living' to 'dead' within the hair follicle.

Xenobiotic metabolism gene expression in the EpiDermin vitro 3D human epidermis model compared to human skin.

There is an urgent need to validate in vitro human skin models for use in safety testing. An important component of validation is characterizing the metabolizing capacity of these models. We report comparison of the expression of 139 genes encoding xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes in the EpiDerm model and human skin. In microarray analysis, the expression of 87% of the genes was consistent between the EpiDerm model and human skin indicating the presence of similar metabolic pathways suggesting commonality in function. Analysis of EpiDerm models constructed from four donors showed highly comparable expression of xenobiotic metabolizing genes demonstrating reproducibility of the model. Overall, the expression of Phase II enzymes appeared to be more pronounced in human skin and the EpiDerm model than that of Phase I enzymes, consistent with the role of skin in detoxification of xenobiotics. Though the basal expression of CYPs in particular was low in EpiDerm, significant induction of CYP1A1/1B1 activity was observed following treatment with 3-methylcholanthrene. These results indicate that the xenobiotic metabolizing capacity of the EpiDerm model appears to be representative of human skin. Models such as EpiDerm provide a valuable in vitro approach for evaluation of metabolism and toxicity of cutaneous exposures to xenobiotics.

Collagen characteristics and organization during the progression of cholesterol-induced atherosclerosis in Japanese quail.

This study reports the concentration of collagen and its hydroxypyridinoline crosslinks, collagen fibril organization in the dorsal aortas, and systolic blood pressure during the progression of atherosclerosis in Japanese quail selected for cholesterol-induced atherosclerosis. The quail were placed on either a control or 0.5% cholesterol-added diet at approximately 16 weeks of age. The concentration of total collagen did not change in the control arteries during the course of the study, whereas at 5 and 10 weeks of cholesterol feeding, collagen levels decreased in the cholesterol-fed birds. Hydroxypyridinoline concentration increased during the duration of the study in the cholesterol-fed birds and by 15 and 20 weeks of cholesterol feeding, levels were significantly increased over those observed in the control arteries. Transmission electron microscopy showed changes in the organization of collagen fibrils. Increased systolic blood pressure was noted beginning at 10 weeks of cholesterol feeding, which is suggestive of other systemic changes induced by hypercholesterolemia. These results demonstrated remodeling of the collagen component of the dorsal aorta extracellular matrix during the progression of atherosclerosis and are suggestive of other systemic cardiovascular system changes.

Expression and localization of the proteoglycan decorin during the progression of cholesterol induced atherosclerosis in Japanese quail: implications for interaction with collagen type I and lipoproteins.

The temporal and spatial distribution, and relative levels of the proteoglycan decorin and collagen type I were examined during the progression of atherosclerosis in the dorsal aortas of Japanese quail selected for cholesterol induced atherosclerosis. The quail were placed on either a control or 0.5% added cholesterol diet at approximately 16 weeks of age. Dorsal aortas were collected at 1- or 2-week intervals over a 15-week period after initiating cholesterol feeding. Biochemical analysis for decorin and collagen type I showed that both increased in the cholesterol-fed birds compared to control-fed birds beginning at 9 weeks and continued through the duration of the study. Through immunohistochemical staining for decorin and collagen type I, the spatial localization of decorin and collagen type I in control and less severe plaques in cholesterol-fed birds was most prominent in the arterial adventitia. However, in severe atherosclerotic plaques, decorin was localized in foam cell regions and collagen type I was found surrounding the foam cell regions where decorin accumulated. These results demonstrated a localization of decorin in the core of the atherosclerotic plaque foam cell region with collagen type I being located on the plaque surface.